G'day
Globalisation. Funny thing, it's all over the world. And it affects travelling every bit as well. Accommodation, travel means, activities, food, housing ... you name it. At times you can wonder what country are you in. It just means you have to work that bit harder to try and find the real 'where-ever'. Does it exist? We have found some cool things, but we are in South Africa and that's the easy start to the journey, but also part of the issue. White South africa strives to be every bit the same as the western world.
But having said that, I now understand why we are seeing so many more South Africans arriving on our shores for reasons of having moved for security, and the future of their kids is a close second. Man, Joburg and Durban were electric. You become traped by nightfall and just don't go out. You keep your wits about you in the daytime as well. We experienced three incidents in Durban. The way people have to live their lives would just be plain tedious. But we have also stayed in rural areas and no issues. Guess it's a big urban area problem. Crickey, Joburg, Durban, and Cape Town all have populations greater than all of NZ. And 90% live in the townships - read some of the worst slum areas you can imagine.
But, don't get the wrong picture. We are having a cool time. And relaxed. If I could just work up the energy I'd tell you how relaxed.
Anyway, the first big tick off was the Super14 rugby game at the hugh ABSA stadium, Durban where the local Sharks met the Hurricanes. The result is now of no consequence. Strewth, the local fans are the most parochial I have ever come across. The ref is the devil incarnate, opposition players are abominations, and two poor lonely Hurricanes supporters waving their 'Canes flags are but people to hiss at. God, when I jumped up and waved the "TRY!" banner we get at games at home when Hurricanes scored their only try, you'd think I just farted in church. Until the end of the game. Then they are as friendly as. They were even asking for my Hurricanes shirt. The shirt off my back. I ask you! But ... at half time a friendly joker comes down, shakes our hands, gives us a warm welcome and introduces himself as George Laas president of the Sharks Supporters Club. He invites us to their club rooms post-match and appoints one of his cobbers as minder to take us there. They wouldn't let us buy a drink - on the house all night. Lucky the 'Canes lost is all I thought. But then in stroll Jerry Collins, Piri Wipu, Shannon Paku and Chris Masoe. They drag Jerry on stage and as part of the intro inform him that he is in luck as his friends Max and Deb are here! The expression on Jerry's face said 'Who the ...' Anyway they came over and started yaking to us before having to line up for photos by just about everyone there. End on the night one of the jokers drove us home. Great night. The Sharks can now become my favourite SA team. That makes them about 10 in the Super14 picking order.
Our paper thin plans took a detour at this stage after only five days when we headed north for a quick visit to Swaziland. On the way we visited Hluhluwe and St. Lucia, in SA. These were recommended to us only days befor leaving by Genevieve, Unisys legal counsel, and Dee, Irish lass who requires no introduction. Thanks guys. Hluhluwe gave us our first opportunity to see all the African animals. You know what it's like when you experience your firsts. Seeing these creatures roaming around is really neat. We've even got to see stacks of stuff roadside when driving around in some areas. St. Lucia was also cool for all the Hippos we saw on/in the river. Re-entering SA, of the five immigration people working the counters on the Swazi side - three were playing Patience on their PCs, and of the five working the SA side - three were eating their lunch at the desk. It's Africa.
We have packed our tent primarily for Namibia and Botswana. Or so we thought. But as a result we have stayed in the tent in a game reserve, bushlands area, and a Xhosa village (Bulungula - find that on your Atlases: 100km and a 3hr 4wd trip back to the coast from a Shell garage we were dropped at by the bus on the highway). It's been great. We bought a beaut tent from Brent at Mainly Tramping a couple of years back, and it's a little ripper. Oh yeah, we also were able to stay right on the beach over looking the world famous surfing spot of J Bay.
When setting off, space only allowed for two books. The first I read was Paul Theroux's Dark Star Safari. Not a travelogue, but a socio-political-economic view of Africa. Very interesting perspective. His actual journey, though in reverse direction, bears a big similarity to what we hope to get up to. Though he did do Sudan, which we will avoid. Recommended, a good read. Incongruously, while resting in a tent in the mentioned Xhosa village, I have been reading Affluenza by Oliver James. But a good time to take a look at my own life and even perhaps of those who have been around me. And, about the only thinking I'm doing at the moment.
And now it's Cape Town. All South Africans we have met so far have recommended it. We will spend eight nights, as there is a stack to do. Apparently you must: visit top of Table Mtn, Visit Cape of Good Hope, visit Rodden Island - the prison Nelson Mandela spent way too many years in, and visit the vineyards of the Stellenbosch and Paarl. So who are we to argue. And relax in just a much more low key environ. Some of the trips you can do to these places include some mountain biking. Sounds good.
I've also been able to keep up with the running. Started off with three days/ three runs. Wellington NZ, Sydney, Aust and Jo'burg, SA. But I've had some beauties. Durban, Bulungula, J Bay, a great cliff tops run in Mossel bay, and when on the reserve in Swaziland (which didn't have the Big Five) ran along dirt roads with giraffe, zebra, wildebeast and all forms of antelops darting around in front of you. And a big croc down by the lake side. Prob averaging 2 out of 3 days. Travel commitments get in the way some days.
One day I scraped my forearm. And can you believe it, I ended up with a blood blister that looked like a tattoo that was a near perfect map of Australia. Man, was I proud of that. Reminded me of Murray Bail's Holden's Performance and the vomit in the foyer of the picture theatre. Anyone read that one?
Enough. Next stop Namibia. Watch this space.
Max
aka Mad
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