From Ngepi Camp we headed towards the Botswana border, after learning a python had taken two of the camp dog's six week old puppies. Lying in our tent was interesting listening to hippos splashing/grunting away in the nearby river (hoping sound travelled a long way in the night quiet).
The border was 15km away, and another 15km to Shakawe. The first bit took rides in the back of a 4x4, a cattle truck, and seven adults in a Corolla sedan 5km through the Mahengo game reserve. Border crossing formalities completed, a short walk earnt us a ride in the back of a bakkie. From Shakawe to Maun it was 390km in a bus. Crowded, of course; slab seats, of course; a sixties model Ford with rear suspension a long distant memory. We were sitting above the rear axle, of course.
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A visit to internet cafe in Botswana brought great news. My second longest term Wellington friend, Des Young, has got himself engaged. Bloody great. And wouldn't you know it, in that real Wellington way, to a dear friend of my longest term Wellington friends, John & Lisa. Des and John have met each other through me, but that's about it. Des and Mahany met through other channels. Just wonderful news.*******************************************************
Before arrival in Botswana, I think I only knew two things about the place. The Okavango Delta and the Kalahari Desert are here. And basically, one was on the left and one was on the right as we journed South. To say Botswana is a flat dustbowl with thousands of donkeys may be a bit uncharitable. Well, I can only speak for the northern half; the south might be very different - there may be fewer donkeys there! But it is rather dry and dusty with stunted tree growth. Obviously, the Delta is a watery wilderness.
In Maun we made our way to the Crocodile Camp, 15km and an enjoyable fun piece of bartering taxi ride away in Matlapenang. Where, believe it, we were 'upgraded'. They have just the one reed-sticks walled bungalow with ensuite that they don't book but offer when suits to 'interesting and nice people'. After meeting and enquiring about our day's travel, the manageress deemed us deserving. Wacko the diddle-oh! (my bro will chuckle at use of that expression). Now if only they had TV and we could watch the final of the Cricket World Cup, but no - we resorted to BBC shortwave. I'm only guessing the result surprised no-one. Quite expected really.
My prior lack of knowledge of the Bots came to the fore when reading the sundaystandard Opinion & Analysis. A feature article by one Dr. Mbako Nyepi discussing Botswana's history since independance and the current/future directions reads interestingly. Apparently, 'our beloved Botswana has been an enviable shining star of governance, democracy, law, transparency etc ... we have grown up proudly knowing to be the envy of most African countries.' Impressive. But now the President is trying to pass a Bill under cover-all 'security interests of Botswana', whether these be political, military or economic. Fascinating. Apparently, the definition of 'political security' is very murky, but gives overwhelming power to the President, alone. Dr. Nyepi suggests the bill needs consultation with the ordinary citizens. Hmmmmm. I wonder, like that will happen. Maybe, apparently their democratic record is good so far.
Botswana: With standards of heath, education and a stable economy better than any in the sub-Sahara it should have a life expectancy of 72 years., but HIV/AIDS means a reality of but 39 years.
By the time we had left Swakopmund, Namibia I had re-stocked on books allowing me to fight the Wilbur Smith/Frederick Forsyth syndrome a while longer. When in Rome ... your interests turn to books on Africa. I found a 2nd hand copy of an oldie: Alan Paton's classic 'Cry, the beloved country' (Penguin Books). I also found some interesting ones: Vic Guhrs' 'The Trouble with Africa: stories from a safari camp' (Penguin Books) and Martin Meredith's 'The State of Africa: A history of fifty years of independance' (Jonathan Ball Publishers). And just had to buy Thabo Mbeki's 'Africa: define yourself' (Tafelberg-Mafube). Should keep me going a while.
Naturally I'm currently a little interested in the Africa topic. Acknowledging our experience so far has been Southern Africa and recognising there are distinct differences in Africa. A couple of lesser items have caught my eye. Dr. Sam Nujoma, Swapo president, and ex - and first - president of Namibia (apparently not such a bad joker, but who did raise some concerns when he changed the new constitution to allow himself an extra term as president, but then retired gracefully) was quoted in the New Era, ' Agriculture is the most important sector in order to supply food to the population [adding] '... there is no way you can talk politics to hungry people. You cannot talk about economic development without healthy people.' Interesting, as generally in Western terms we are always refering to economic development of third world - developing nations.
Also, Paul Theroux with his disdain for 'agents of virtue': the NGOs, aid organisations and charities, would be interested in the Namibian story: 'Red Cross loses N$20 million due to mis-management'. It appears Secretary General Razia Essack-Kauaria kind of lost control there a wee bit. Silly, silly girl. Mind you, what's 20 mill to a not-for-profit?
Back to books for a moment. I mentioned an earlier read, Jan Morris's 'A Writers World: Travels 1950-2000'. Interesting on a couple of accounts. She was a he ... he is now a she. Once James Morris. But that means some of the earlier writings would not have been possible by a woman journalist, or woman for that matter. Reporting in the Middle East or the only reporter on the 1953 Hillary to the top of Everest climb would not have been female.
I still keep thinking about Affluenza (Oliver James) a bit. I became a bit disillusioned. Early on I read with interest the effects of consumerism on people. I was a good lad and diligently got my A+ for Marketing during MBA studies, but spent almost as much time discussing its science of manipulation with my chum, and one time Unisys man, Bill H. It did not surprise me one bit, at dinner two nights before leaving and telling how I had bought this book to find Bill had just completed reading it himself. He is much more erudite than I, with a philosophy major and I'd like to know his comments. But for me, by end it had become a bit of a socialist rant. Too black and white. You are poor - you have the virus, you are rich - you have the virus. But, and a big one, a real let down was he failed to provide thoughts on a vaccine for my demographic: male, heterosexual, and without children by choice. In his two major closing statements he used 'obvious' and 'obviously' when I wouldn't have thought so by a long shot.
To me it is all way more simple. It's about attitude. I have seen people consumed by consumerism. But really, I have this ... you have that: It's not a bloody competition! He (James) is the psychologist, whereas I'm probably just a psychologist's retirement fund, but spare me that 'it's all about our childhood' stuff. Of course it it. But jeepers. I had a feeling a section with a Kiwi 'subject' was actually a nostalgic view of how Kiwis would like to imagine themselves. The fact that they sat back afterwards having a few beers and reminisced about the good old days said as much. When arriving in NZ in the early eighties, it felt a reasonably egalitarian society. There is now much more dedicated push to show status. Don't take me wrong. Exactly the same would be happening in Australia, and elsewhere (exactly James's point), but that's my reference. I think the whole book could have been covered by a quote (I can't produce source, but pretty sure I have it right) of Mahatma Ghandi's: 'the world has enough for everyone's needs, but not for their greed.' That's all.
OK, so I've had some time to think about a few things. Here's another for you. Has anyone else noticed the contradictions that exist in proverbs, those little pearls of wisdom they say grandmothers (Nana in our family's case) like to quote. Consider:
Birds of a feather stick together: opposites attract
Look before you leap: he who hesitates is lost
Don't judge a book by its cover: clothes maketh the man.
I can only guess there are more. Perhaps I have discovered a new law of Physics: For each and every proverb that exists, there is an equal and opposite proverb.
Hey, and how about this story from Botswana's The Midweek Sun:
Botswana is occupying fifth position in Africa and is in the top 30 in the world , according to the recently released cricket rankings.
Botswana Cricket Association (BCA) spokesperson, Sumod Damodar, coud not not hide his happiness with this achievement this week. [You go, Sumod!]
"of course we are happy. This means that BCA has put the country in the world map." [Sumod, the world has stopped in their tracks speaking of Botswana's cricketing breakthrough.] Botswana is fifth after Kenya, Namibia, Uganda and Tanzania [all cricketing giants!!]. But wait, aren't South Africa and Zimbabwe in Africa? Perhaps it's that Affiliate, Associate and Full membership thing.
Self-catering allows us to hire a mokoro poler/guide, pack our camping and cooking gear, and food and take off into the Delta for a couple of days. We feed the poler. Seb 'Mike' Kentshitswe is pleasing company and we've done without need for a tour. All very intimate. Discarding the tent, we sleep under the stars.
During the night we hear a lion's roar. There's paw-prints on the track next morning - we are on foot and a tad apprehensive. Didn't see the lion. But the real threat came crossing some grass land towards some trees when out pops three elephants. The large bull spots us. "He wants to get down wind to smell us," says Mike, "It is not good we are in the open." Oh-oh. We scarper towards some trees, beating Jumbo who has scooted along trying to cut us off. He comes to the trees and stares at us, and starts scraping up dirt with his trunk and flings it at us. Walking safaris appear to be coming big over here. But, phew, time for a cup of tea and a wee lie down.
An eventful trip out as well. A guy in another mokoro we come across tells us of a scare by a lion overnight. And a 'bushfire' in the papyrus reeds burns along side us right down to waters edge as we pass.
There's one last sting in the Affluenza tail. On the bus from Maun to Nata a gentleman, Tshekiso Majwa, comes down the back of the bus and stands over me. "Sir, I think I sat next to you on a bus five or six days ago. You were reading a book Affluenza. Excuse my rudeness, but I read over your shoulder. That bit about democracy was very interesting. I asked at the bookshop in Maun - they do not know the book. Can you please tell me the author and the ISBN number to allow me to search." I can do one better. It was Deb that was actually reading it. "I'm sure she will finish reading it by the time we get off this bus. I would like to give it to you." Well, I've never seen a more thrilled, excited person. (OK. Maybe me when John Eales put over the penalty for the last minute Wallabies one-pointer at Wellington Stadium.) I believe the Africans think Westerners are loopy at the best of times. Affluenza will convince him we are absolutely barking. We spoke of many things. Botswana's politics, current affairs (the dodgy sale of Air Botswana), and life and the universe. Conversation was interrupted by him near landing on top of me when the bus slammed on the brakes and a big swerve to miss an elephant that ran out onto the road, then down the road in front of us. It seems it's always about the animals. It's Africa.
The trip to Kasane, and to see the magnificent herds of elephants at Chobe National Park, means a night in the tent behind a service station in Nata on the way. But a great ride next day propels us onwards.
And to think, there's still heaps to go yet. A light evening breeze wafts over the camp. I am sure I can hear the call of Zambia.
Max
aka Mad
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