Northern Ethiopia Part 5: Lalibela - saving best for last

Lalibela: What a wonderful sounding name. Laa-lee-bell-a. Phoenetically, just splendid. And always pronounced with a musical lilt.

Lalibela: To Ethiopians Axum is the holy one; to the western visitor, saving Lalibela to last is just a highlight.

Lalibela: it could be explained as rock-hewn churches, and that would never catch the majesty of the place.

The modern town offers little, but set in striking surrounds at over 2,600 meters on a rock escarpment with wild, craggy mountains. But, there, carved into the red volcanic tuff, below ground level are two clusters of two storey, fully hewn, churches. The buildings complete with windows, arches, internal pillars, kings thrones, the 'holy-of-holies' sanctum, everthing. The churches are big and connected by a maze of tunnels and passages. Both sites are joined by a carved river, called Jordan. There is a site marking the baptism place of Christ.

Each church is unique. There is one cave church, clear on all sides, but still connected at the roof. Design or unfinished? Looks like design.

I've recently heard that a new seven wonders of the world have been voted on. Lalibela didn't make it. Firstly, I don't think people know of it. And, secondly, perversly, because it is in Ethiopia, I guess.

Apart from the two sets of churches stands an independent church, St. George., but its isolation makes it stunning.

Lalibela, was the younger brother of the King. One day Lalibela was covered in a swarm of bees, which his mother took as a prophecy he would be King. His older brother wasn't too pleased, so tried to poison him. It didn't work, instead putting him to sleep for three days, during which an angel took him to heaven and he was shown rock-hewn churches. By wonderful coincidence, at the same time, his brother, the King, had a vision of Christ suggesting he should abdicate for his actions. Wonderful.

St. George was a bit pissed none of the churches was dedicated to him. He visited the King, who promised to set it right. He built the free-standing, 15m high, cruciform church as a stand alone, promising it to be the finest. And it's a stunner. Built in the shape of the St. George cross.

So pleased with the result was St. George, he rode over the steep walls, and through the tunnel, right up to the entrance. The holes in the stone walls and tunnel floor are his horse's hoofprints. So thet tell you, and they believe it, what's more.

I can't describe these fantastic, fantastic structure adequately. I've never seen the likes. I know you probably won't, but I suggest getting to your library, any decent picture book on Ethiopia should cover them - maybe there's a book specifically on them, and having a look. I guess Google Images might also have pictures.

Do yourself a favour, check them out.

Max
aka Mad