But one of the festivities we did attend was the bull fighting. Now I'm aware there are people strongly pro and anti this event. I had no feeling either way due, as I had confirmed, having very little knowledge of what went on. If you know that you are really anti perhaps you don't want to read further, I understand. It was a learning and observation experience for me.
I had a misunderstanding that once the matador (or sometimes called torero)had fought the bull, the 'judge' - the President of Plaza del Toro would give a thumb up or down assessing the matador's performance, and thus the right to kill the bull. Wrong, first mistake. Actually what happens is that if the bull has fought 'bravely' the public can petition or even the matador may request an indulto: the bull is spared. This is very rare. In fact the bull has been speared and stabbed and would be lucky to survive back on the farm anyway. No, what you are likely going to see is the bull being killed. In fact the judgement of the matador's performance is on how well he kills the bull.
I'll do my best, as I understand it, to explain what happens.
The format is made up of three matadores who each fight two bulls. Following a brassy fanfare by trumpet the matadores and their teams enter the arena to the accompaniment of a full band, and salute the President and dignitaries. The matador has the assistance of two picadores mounted on horseback,and four banderilleros, one of whom acts as mozo de espada (sword page boy) and assists with the final kill of the bull.
A bull is let loose into the ring, snorting and pawing, and racing around like a mad thing (I wondered what had been done to him to have him so riled.) I understand the bulls should be at least four years old, and weigh at least 500 kgs. Upon sighting, some of the crowd around us murmured they thought a couple of the bulls could have been a bit young. The bulls race from one side of the ring to the other chasing anything that moves - the banderilleros waving capes at him, then running and leaping behind shelter walls. One guy got his comeuppance and got a good trampling, he was carted off and not seen again that day. Apparently the bull is being observed by the matador for its ferocity, agility, and strength. It also tires and slows him down a bit. The matador confronts a bull with his large colourful cape, but not 'fighting' at this stage but making some sweeping passes at the bull as it races past.
Next, two picadores enter, riding well padded and blindfolded horses. Naturally, the bull charges the horse getting stuck in. While the bull charges the horse, and the matador notes which side the bull favours, the picador lances the bull in a muscle group high on the neck and shoulder. The reason is to make the bull carry his head, and horns, lower when 'fighting' the matador as lifting his head will hurt more. This lets the matador perform his 'classical moves'.
Then three banderillos take over. As the bull charges them they dodge, an attempt to stab two razor sharp and barbed banderillas into the passing bull. They aim is to place them as close to the wound made by the picador as this angers the bull but at the same time weakens its neck and shoulder muscles through pain and loss of blood. By now the bulls charges are not much more than a canter, or very short bursts.
The matador is now back on the scene, in an otherwise cleared ring. This time he only carries a small red cape and a dummy sword he uses to shape the top of the cape. It's at this stage, the 'bull fight' is conducted, to classical moves, or art as the purists would have it. he whole point is to perform under total control, getting as close to the bull with each pass as possible. When ready, the matador will motion to his page to bring out the real sword.
The matador will continue for a while with this all the while moving the bull into a position where he can stab the bull behind the shoulders going right down into the bull's heart. Done well, the bull should drop immediately. If it staggers and drops to the ground the page will move in and stab the bull in the brain. Should the bull keep moving the matador's sword is retrieved and he attempts another time. One fight we saw, the matador had three goes. Two were clean, immediate drops. The dead bull is ignominiously dragged off by a couple of horses.
Should the crowd be satisfied, and the President agree and wave his handkerchief, the ear of the dead bull is cut off and presented to the matador. On his victory circuit of the ring, waving to the crowd, he will throw the ear to a 'lucky' person - imagine catching a bleeding bull's ear. God knows what they do with it.
The performance we saw was not a first grade event,and the crowd was not large. Antequera has a big week long festival of bull fights in August. We won't be here.
If I had left after one or two 'fights' I would have seen enough, though I wasn't compelled to leave. I could be tempted to visit a first class event, in one of the big rings, with a big crowd for the atmosphere. But maybe, I've seen enough.
So, that's another whole new Spanish experience.
Mad
aka Max
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