Tuesday, April 22, 2008

Semana Santa: something else again!

Semana Santa: Holy Week.

The week preceding Easter, starting Palm Sunday - Domingo de Ramos - through to the following Sunday, Easter Sunday - Domingo de Resurrección. The Easter public holidays are celebrated on Thursday and Friday in España.

Our favourite bi-weekly, local, newspaper El Sol de Antequera described the phenomenon as a big serve of religion, a chunk of culture, and a slice of tourism. That very description exposes myself. I'll fess up, and admit I have misplaced the clipping which gave the statement a bit of statistical credibility.

Basically, it's all about nightly processions of religious tronos, literally thrones, depicting scenes of Holy Week. Each procession is organised by a cofradía, a society, each with a very structured hierarchy, based at one of the many churches. It is an Antequeran status symbol to be a member of the 'board' of a cofradía, and a big deal within the host church community. Between 70 and 80 men, and some very few women, lift the tronos onto their shoulders. These are highly valued positions, handed down through families. Some wear a simple, conservative black suit, others a costume. Famous actor, Antonio Bandaras, even returned to his hometown, Málaga - to much media attention, to take part in his role as a trono carrier at his home church.

The tronos are decorated in elaborate, and expensive, robes and jewels. A a result the Cofradías, fund raise by holding big 'beer tents' at the Spring Fair and big casino nights.

The tronos carriers are somtimes accompanied by Legionnaires - both costumed Roman and the contemporary Spanish Foreign Legion - or military bands, altar boys, girls swinging incense laden crucibles. But a startling sight is the KKK-like outfits worn by many. Apparently these are to hide the identity of the person so they don't achieve any recognition for showing their adoration. I don't know the history and if there is any link with these outfits and the KKK ones, apart from hiding identity.

The crowds are spectacular. People adorn their balconies with banners of the colours and emblems of the host cofradía, and crowd them to watch the passing procession. Many of the old dears are reduced to tears at the sight of the tronos, and their grand children (some just wee tots) parading as altar boys and crucible carriers.

Processions start around 6:30 - 7:00pm and can go on on until 1:30am, doing loops of the inner city. Processions usually move forward for about 100 meters, then stop, and take a rest. Crowds usually take a break as well, nipping into bars and cafés for a quick drink and a round of tapas. There is a real buzz all over town. Clapping applause greets the procession the whole way.

The tronos are spectacular. Opulent. Usually two depict a scene of Christ, and a third with a stunningly beautiful statue of the Virgin Mary, usually with tears on her face, and the most lavish of robes. Each trono is laden with angels, and cherubs.

Each procession has a familiar feel, yet each is unique in its own way. Despite the 'sameness' I have covered them all so you can get the whole picture.

I'll dedicate a posting to each procession. Mostly pictures, to make it easier for you, but a few notes to explain any peculiarities.

For me, an experience not easily forgotten. Friday night is the big one, as the tronos carriers take on additional difficulty to prove their devotion on the day of remembering Christ's death, and run the tronos up step hills.

Catholicism is still very strong in Spain, though apparently slipping a bit - not that you'd notice during Semana Santa in conservative Antequera.

Mad
aka Max

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